{"id":1843,"date":"2026-10-25T03:38:12","date_gmt":"2026-10-25T03:38:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/cutting-sewing-pressing-cashmere-feel-knit\/"},"modified":"2026-10-27T13:17:59","modified_gmt":"2026-10-27T13:17:59","slug":"cutting-sewing-pressing-cashmere-feel-knit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/cutting-sewing-pressing-cashmere-feel-knit\/","title":{"rendered":"From Roll to Garment: Cutting, Sewing and Pressing a Cashmere-Feel Knit Range"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We have had the same conversation for years. A buyer approves a swatch, places an order, and then sends us a photo of the finished cardigan with a message that reads: it does not feel like the swatch.<\/p>\n<p>Sometimes the mill is at fault. More often the fabric was fine when it left Keqiao and something happened between the cutting table and the final press. This article is about that gap, written for the people who will actually cut, sew and finish a 270\u2013280 gsm cashmere-feel knit \u2014 not for a sourcing deck.<\/p>\n<h2>Four numbers that decide the programme<\/h2>\n<p>Before a single marker is made, four figures need to be on paper. Without them the sample room will guess, and the guess will be wrong in a different direction on each style.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Shrinkage, length and width, after one domestic wash.<\/strong> Not &#8220;low shrinkage&#8221;. A number, measured on your own test method, in both directions.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Width tolerance.<\/strong> If the quote says 165 cm, ask whether that is greige, finished, or usable between selvedges. On a 165 cm body panel, a 3 cm difference at the selvedge changes the marker.<\/li>\n<li><strong>GSM tolerance.<\/strong> \u00b15% is normal. State it on the order so a 265 gsm delivery against a 280 gsm spec is a conversation rather than an argument.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Spirality.<\/strong> Knit fabrics can skew after washing. Measure the leg of a trouser or the side seam of a dress after one wash, before you cut the bulk.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you only take one number, take shrinkage. It is the one that turns a good fit sample into a returned bulk order.<\/p>\n<h2>Cutting: direction first, then speed<\/h2>\n<p>On <a href=\"\/vi\/danh-muc-san-pham\/premium-blends-specialty-lurex\/\">brushed<\/a> and looped surfaces the lay direction is not a preference. <a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2527-brushed-fuzzy-starry-texture-knit\/\">#2527 \u0110an k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u m\u1edd \u0111\u1ea7y sao m\u1edd<\/a> has a raised surface; run the front panel one way and the back panel the other and the garment will read as two different colours under shop lighting even though it is one dye lot.<\/p>\n<p>The rule we give cutters: one arrow on the pattern, one direction on the lay, and a chalk arrow on the top ply. For boucl\u00e9 \u2014 <a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2409-boucle-wool-blend-looped-knit\/\">#2409<\/a> \u2014 the same applies, and add a second rule about seam bulk. Boucl\u00e9 at 280 gsm plus a 1 cm seam allowance gives you a ridge at the armhole that can be felt through a lining. Trim the allowance after overlocking rather than before.<\/p>\n<p>Smooth structures are more forgiving. <a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2538-silk-touch-wool-blend-fine-knit\/\">#2538 Silk-Touch<\/a> V\u00e0 <a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2610-acetate-wool-blend-porcelain-texture-knit\/\">#2610 Acetate Wool<\/a> can be laid two-up without a nap restriction, which is where the marker efficiency comes from. Do not carry that habit over to the brushed styles.<\/p>\n<h2>Sewing: the settings that keep the hand<\/h2>\n<p>Most of the damage to a knit happens at the needle. A sharp needle on a 270 gsm rayon-rich knit will cut the yarn, and the cut shows up three washes later as a line of small holes along the seam.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Operation<\/th>\n<th>Setting we recommend<\/th>\n<th>Why<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Needle<\/td>\n<td>Ballpoint 75\/11 for 250\u2013280 gsm; 80\/12 for 300 gsm and above<\/td>\n<td>Rounded tip separates the yarn instead of cutting it<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Stitch length<\/td>\n<td>3.0\u20134.0 mm on the main seam<\/td>\n<td>Shorter stitches concentrate stress and pucker on stretch<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Overlock<\/td>\n<td>4-thread, differential feed 1.1\u20131.3<\/td>\n<td>Prevents wavy seams on the cross grain<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Hem<\/td>\n<td>Coverstitch, 2-needle, 4\u20135 mm<\/td>\n<td>Keeps recovery without a bulky fold<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Thread<\/td>\n<td>Polyester core-spun, tex 27\u201335<\/td>\n<td>Matches the elongation of the fabric<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>Two of these are non-negotiable on cashmere-feel knits. First, the ballpoint needle. Second, the differential feed. A flat overlock on a 280 gsm rayon blend will produce a seam that waves along the side of the garment, and no amount of pressing removes it.<\/p>\n<h2>Pressing: the fastest way to lose the hand<\/h2>\n<p>A cashmere-feel knit gets its surface from raised fibre or from loop structure. Both are heat-sensitive, and both are destroyed by a flat, hot iron.<\/p>\n<p>Press with steam at 110\u2013130\u00b0C, from 10\u201315 cm, on a form or a sleeve board. Use a pressing cloth on dark shades. Do not rest the iron on the surface, and do not press a cable or a boucl\u00e9 flat \u2014 a flattened cable cannot be recovered.<\/p>\n<p>The exception is the seam. Seams can and should be pressed open, on a seam roll, before the garment is assembled. That is where pressing earns its money: it sets the seam so the garment hangs straight, without touching the surface.<\/p>\n<h2>A QC sequence that catches problems early<\/h2>\n<p>Run these in order. Each one is cheap; each one fails before the next becomes expensive.<\/p>\n<ol>\n<li><strong>On receipt:<\/strong> measure width at three points across the roll and gsm on a 100 cm\u00b2 cutter. Reject a roll that is out of tolerance before it reaches the lay.<\/li>\n<li><strong>After cutting:<\/strong> check the first bundle for grain direction and ply alignment. One bad bundle is a re-cut; a bad lay is a re-order.<\/li>\n<li><strong>After sewing:<\/strong> pull a side seam to 80% extension and release. A seam that does not recover will wave after the first wear.<\/li>\n<li><strong>After washing:<\/strong> measure shrinkage and spirality on a finished garment, not on a square. The garment is what the customer sees.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Before packing:<\/strong> press one garment and leave it on a hanger overnight. If the hand has stiffened by morning, the pressing temperature is too high.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h2>Matching the article to the operation<\/h2>\n<p>The same sewing room can run all of these, but not with one setting:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2538-silk-touch-wool-blend-fine-knit\/\">#2538 V\u1ea3i d\u1ec7t kim m\u1ecbn pha len Silk-Touch<\/a> \u2014 270 gsm, 165 cm. Fluid drape, rayon-rich. Watch pressing shine; use a cloth.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2610-acetate-wool-blend-porcelain-texture-knit\/\">#2610 Acetate Wool Blend s\u1ee9 k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u d\u1ec7t kim<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm. Smooth surface, holds a soft shoulder. Good for blazers and skirt suits.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2527-brushed-fuzzy-starry-texture-knit\/\">#2527 \u0110an k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u m\u1edd \u0111\u1ea7y sao m\u1edd<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm. One-way lay, no flat press, lint control at the cutting table.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2409-boucle-wool-blend-looped-knit\/\">#2409 V\u00f2ng \u0111an b\u1eb1ng len Boucle<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm. Seam bulk is the main risk; grade the allowance.<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2406-classic-cable-texture-knit-fabric\/\">#2406 V\u1ea3i d\u1ec7t kim k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u c\u00e1p c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm. Never press the cable flat; steam and cool on a form.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Sampling before the bulk<\/h2>\n<p>We ship A4 swatches free of charge, freight collect, and a swatch hanger if you are choosing between structures. One roll \u2014 about 25\u201335 kg \u2014 is the minimum for a fit sample, and stock ships in 24\u201348 hours. Custom dyeing starts at 500 kg per colour, with lab dips in 3\u20135 days.<\/p>\n<p>If you are about to cut a first bulk and the four numbers at the top of this article are not yet on paper, ask us for them. We would rather send a shrinkage figure than replace a run.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/vi\/request-a-quote\/?article=2538\">Request a quote on #2538<\/a> \u2014 or send the tech pack and we will tell you which of these five we would cut it in, and where we expect the seam to give trouble.<\/p>\n<h2>C\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ec1 c\u1eadp trong b\u00e0i vi\u1ebft n\u00e0y<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2538-silk-touch-wool-blend-fine-knit\/\">#2538 V\u1ea3i d\u1ec7t kim m\u1ecbn pha len Silk-Touch<\/a> \u2014 270 gsm, 165 cm<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2610-acetate-wool-blend-porcelain-texture-knit\/\">#2610 Acetate Wool Blend s\u1ee9 k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u d\u1ec7t kim<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2527-brushed-fuzzy-starry-texture-knit\/\">#2527 \u0110an k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u m\u1edd \u0111\u1ea7y sao m\u1edd<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2409-boucle-wool-blend-looped-knit\/\">#2409 V\u00f2ng \u0111an b\u1eb1ng len Boucle<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/san-pham\/2406-classic-cable-texture-knit-fabric\/\">#2406 V\u1ea3i d\u1ec7t kim k\u1ebft c\u1ea5u c\u00e1p c\u1ed5 \u0111i\u1ec3n<\/a> \u2014 280 gsm, 165 cm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Related reading<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"\/vi\/cashmere-feel-knit-weight-guide-250-400-gsm\/\">The Weight Ladder: Choosing 250\u2013400 gsm Cashmere-Feel Knits by Garment<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"\/vi\/boucle-cable-chevron-cashmere-look-knit-structures\/\">Boucl\u00e9, Cable and Chevron: How Loop and Transfer Stitches Build the Cashmere Look<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"\/vi\/brushed-sweater-knit-fabric-guide\/\">Brushed Sweater Knit Fabric: Hacci, Brushed Rib, Ponte and Waffle Compared<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The fabric leaves the mill in good condition and arrives at the customer looking cheap. Here are the four numbers, three sewing settings and one pressing habit that decide whether a cashmere-feel knit keeps its hand.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1619,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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China."},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1843","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1843"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1843\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1849,"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1843\/revisions\/1849"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1619"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1843"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1843"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yepotextile.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1843"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}