Most sourcing problems we see are not about price. They are about specification: two parties agreeing on “240 GSM navy rib” and receiving two different fabrics. This checklist is what we would hand a new buyer on their first order from China.
1. Source by article number, not by description
Descriptions drift. Article numbers do not. When you shortlist, record the mill’s article number, GSM, composition and cuttable width exactly as published, then hold the supplier to that same line in the purchase order. It removes almost all dispute about “what we thought we ordered”.
2. Agree the MOQ before you fall in love with the fabric
Chinese mills quote two completely different MOQs: one for stock and one for custom dyeing. Ours are typical of Keqiao: 1 roll (25–35 kg) from stock, and 500 kg per colour if the colour has to be dyed. If your first order is 150 kg, you are buying stock — so check stock colours first, and treat the stock palette as your real starting point.
3. Always order a lab dip before a bulk dye lot
A lab dip is a small dye sample matched to your Pantone reference. A good mill returns it in 3–5 days. Approve the dip in daylight, not on a screen, and keep the approved dip on file: it is the reference if the bulk lot is questioned later.
4. Put a tolerance on GSM — and mean it
“240 GSM” is a target, not a guarantee. Knitting and dyeing produce variation, so a tolerance of ±5% is normal and should be written into the spec. Ask what the tolerance is before you order, and ask for the measured weight on the inspection report.
5. Confirm cuttable width after finishing
Greige width and finished, cuttable width are different numbers. Marker planning has to use the finished width, measured after dyeing and relaxation. Widths across a normal knit range run from about 150 cm to 185 cm, with 165 cm as a common standard. Take the figure from the mill’s own product data, and confirm it on the first bulk roll.
6. Ask for 4-point inspection — and the report
Four-point inspection is the standard fabric grading system: defects are scored and the roll is accepted or rejected against a points-per-100-square-yards threshold. Ask for the report with the shipment. If a supplier cannot produce one, that is information too.
7. Understand what the certificates actually cover
OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is the common baseline for skin-contact textiles. Ask which article numbers and which colourways are covered — a certificate for one quality does not automatically cover a different construction or a new dye recipe.
8. Agree lead times as three separate numbers
Stock dispatch, lab dip and bulk are three different clocks. Ours are 24–48 hours for stock, 3–5 days for a lab dip and 10–15 days for bulk production after dip approval. Ask for all three in writing; a single “2 weeks” hides where the risk is.
9. Check the payment and shipping structure early
Typical export terms are T/T with a deposit and the balance against the bill of lading, or an irrevocable L/C at sight. Ports matter too: Shanghai and Ningbo are the usual gateways from Zhejiang, and the choice changes your transit time more than the freight rate.
10. Sample the actual colourways you will buy
A swatch in the mill’s house colour tells you about the hand. It tells you nothing about the colour you plan to sell. Ask for A4 swatches in your shortlisted colours, keep them labelled with article number and dye lot, and compare them against your own reference under the same light.
What this looks like in practice
Run properly, a first order from a Chinese knit mill is not risky: you agree an article number, approve a lab dip, receive 4-pointed rolls and plan your marker against a confirmed width. The problems come from skipping the specification steps, not from the distance.
Fabrics mentioned in this article
- #2615 Melange Snowflake Textured Knit — 95% Polyester, 5% Spandex · 260 GSM · 165 cm
- #2209 Sculpted 3D Waffle Thermal Knit — 95% Polyester, 5% Spandex · 260 GSM · 165 cm
- #2503 Viscose Blend Smooth Drape Knit — 86% Polyester, 5% Spandex, 9% Viscose · 280 GSM · 165 cm
Need samples or pricing?
Tell us the article number, colour and quantity and we will come back within 12 hours (Mon–Sat) with pricing, stock availability and lead times. Free A4 swatch cards and hangers are available — international freight collect.
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